wojo wrote: ↑September 30th, 2020, 4:51 am
Yeah, Braden... Like I said, Green 1 is finished and it works fine. Green 2 is an example of the mess you have to work through to get to Green 1 results. I posted the question asking whether anyone has a better strategy than placing points on the contours and then painstakingly cleaning up the mess of spider webs that result... apparently not. I get the impression not many users are trying to accurately duplicate existing courses?
I'll give you my tips on the green contours. I've done enough of them to understand the process. Please forgive me if I repeat other designers comments. This is the method I have developed, and so far it has worked perfectly for me. I'm not saying others are doing anything wrong. We develop our own methods of doing things, and it's simply our own methods. It doesn't mean its wrong. Just different in some ways. In the end we all get the job done.
After the contour map (picture) is applied to the green, be sure and size the green to match the map. I use StrackaLine, and the grid squares are 5yds by 5yds. Don't resize the map to match your green, but rather make sure your map is measured accurately and then re-shape the green to match the map.
Start with one single vert in the center of your green, and have verts running straight out from the center vert to the outer edges, like lots of wagon wheel spokes.
I don't use the terrain painter (spray can) to add the verts, because it yanks in verts from all around it, and I personally find that to be annoying. I prefer to go slow and deliberate, and make adjustments as I work.
Use the "ADD" vert function and pop in a vert along one contour line. Follow that same line and keep popping in verts until you complete the line.
Next go to the closest line next to the one you just completed and add verts along that line the same way you did the first one. As you work, switch over to the edge turning tool. (hot key "4" followed by "T") 4 selects the EDGE tab, and T selects the TURN tool. Turn the edges between the 2 contour lines that you have completed, so that the edges connect only those 2 contour lines together.
Select (hot key "5" and "A") 5 selects the VERT tab while "A" selects the "ADD VERT tool, to switch back and add more verts to the 3rd contour line. Add verts to that line until you get to the end of it, and then switch back to the TURN tool and turn the edges to connect lines 2 and 3 together.
As you continue to advance across the map, you will need to turn some verts that are in the way of your next contour lines. Turn them in directions to where they won't be in the way at sideways angles. Try to keep them turned at angles in such a manner that your new verts CROSS the other edges, like crossing a T.
Keep repeating this process one contour line at a time, and your entire green will eventually take shape correctly without any overlapping or chaotic looking edges crossing over one another. I would add that it is NOT a good idea to have any overlapping edges anywhere on your course. If they are in the wrong place, it can cause bad data readings in path mappings.
When finally complete, select ALL VERTS on the green and fringe, and press "F" to flatten the entire green and fringe so its perfectly level.
Go to Google Earth and search out the highest point on the green. Adjust all of the flattened verts to that altitude.
Starting at the highest point, DE-SELECT that row of verts, and then lower all of the others (they should still all be selected) until they match the next row in altitude. (A one inch drop is 8 APCD units) If you are using 3 inch contour maps, that would be 24 APCD units.
Next DE-SELECT the next row down the hill, and then drop all other selected verts another 3 inches. Keep de-selecting one row and dropping another 3 inches for each row that you encounter. Pay close attention to the arrows and make sure the green didn't start going back up a hill as you work.
By the time you get all the way across the green, you should have a perfect mesh with neat edges that won't cross one another. It's tedious and time consuming, but if you do it this way you will like the end result.
Hope this makes sense. I mentioned using the hot key shortcuts to switch back and forth between adding verts to turning edges because I find that much easier than fumbling around clicking on the correct menu items with the mouse. Once you get used to those hot hey commands, you may like them much better... or not...
Here is one of my Coeur d'Alene greens with a StrackaLine map. StrackaLine uses 1 inch contours, so every contour line you see in my pictures, drops one inch downhill. Note that all of my edges cross as straight as reasonably possible from one contour line to the contour lines on either side.
Good luck,
Dan

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